b'sand. Well, it has been anything butcruise across a wave in the ocean. A gigantic head suddenly surfac-that, yet it does bring us back to theSurfing in Hawaii is downright dan- ing next to me that looked like a conversation about adventure andgerous and the utmost adventure.colossal Aquaman, with goggle-the adventurous ones.Several months ago I startedlike designs and wild face What I am learning comes fromsurfing a new spot near our familymarkingsonly for me to realize my shared experiences in the adven- home, and here are a few of theit was (just!) a giant sea turtle.ture. I am learning from the greatadventurous things I have faced Twenty-foot, two-story-tall waves people I get to serve alongside, I amafter just one month: that will rip limbs out of their learning from others who have a A shark jumping straight out ofsockets and break bones.heart for the poor, I am learningthe water 40 feet behind me to from my time in the community,Surfing in Hawaii is downright and I am even learning from thesnatch a fish out of midair. dangerous. wide world of sports. A massive two-foot-tall,On the final swell of this particu-As many of you know, Hawaii issharklike-fin popping up rightlar adventurous month, I had the the birthplace of a beautiful sportnext to me, thengloriously opportunity to paddle out on the called surfing. It was the sport ofanother fin popping up eightabove-mentioned 20-foot-wave day. kings and queens, literally. And Ifeet away on the other side toIt was probably against my better figured if I live in the surfing capitalconfirm this was a giant mantajudgment and definitely against my of the world, I must partake! But letray swimming and relaxing inwifes judgment. She just didnt hap-me tell you, surfing here isnt just athe surf zone. pen to be with me when I decided \x02 Photos courtesy of River of Life MissionNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2022 WWW.CITYGATENETWORK.ORG 45'